A new buzzword in foodie circles these days is ‘traceability’, which means being able to identify the origin of food through all stages of its production and distribution.
We have little knowledge of the source of our meat, poultry and vegetables we buy from large supermarkets these days – nor what happened to the food along the way. It’s a trend that Lancashire-based Booth’s supermarkets are trying to buck by buying regionally wherever they can. But it is among the small producers that regional foods and, by extension, regional cooking survives. The problem with small producers is that ... they’re small. By their very virtue not many people are aware of them outside their immediate neighbourhood and a few in-the-know professionals.
But Lancashire food suppliers now have a new champion with the commendable aim of featuring the suppliers in his pub/restaurant, to the extent of showcasing a series of superb photographs of them on the walls of The Three Fishes in Mitton, and reproducing a map with their contact details on the menu. Chef Nigel Haworth intends to share the limelight with the hardworking growers and suppliers – the farmers, cheesemakers, fishermen and gamekeepers - who provide the raw ingredients for his excellent Lancastrian cooking.
Nigel’s laudable attempts to put the spotlight on small local food producers (often the unsung heroes in the food chain) emphasises his belief that good food begins with choice raw ingredients - what he calls ‘food with roots’. Sure, Tesco has its uses but for the real taste of food you should take time to visit these suppliers.
And that’s just what I did.
After indulging in a splendid 3-course lunch consisting of crumpet with Lancashire curd, roast chicken and summer fruit pudding (another feature of regional cooking is a distinct lack of menu-hype!), I made appointments to meet the people who provided the raw ingredients to this wonderful meal. I wanted to see how the chicken was reared, how the vegetables were harvested, how that remarkable curd was made and how the sour cream soured. This was going to be traceability in action …
My first stop was Swainson House Farm, Goosnargh, to meet Reg Johnson and a few thousand of his chickens and ducks.
You might think that producing 2,000 ducks and 1,200 chickens each week would require a factory environment. But that’s not the case. True, they have mechanised their operation to a certain extent but this is very much a family farm operated on a human scale.
The business has grown, essentially, because of the quality of the product and because Reg has responded to his customers’ encouragement. The farm has also grown with a little help from a few high profile real food fans. But these are not just any old foodies: Paul Heathcote, Nigel Haworth and Gordon Ramsay all regularly make their way to the small holding to check on the progress of their raw materials and share with Reg the praises from their high-spend customers. Other famous restaurateurs who serve Reg’s poultry include Marco Pierre White and Albert Roux; it’s also on the menu at London’s Ivy and Le Caprice restaurants. These are all superb chefs who have made food their passion and appreciate what Reg has done to help make their cooking amongst the best in Europe and ensure their international reputations continue to grow.
The celebrity endorsements reached a peak this year when Heston Blumenthal, chef of the 3-Michelin-starred Fat Duck restaurant in Berkshire (and recently voted the best restaurant in the world), came for breakfast! The Johnson family sat around their kitchen table with the world’s greatest chef and swapped recipes while mopping up their morning eggs with toast and tea.
When asked what competition he faced, Reg said: “Our chickens are grown without any growth promoters, additives or antibiotics to the age of about nine weeks, which is rare these days. The result is a great tasting bird, for which we don’t have any direct competition.”
Rather than supply wholesale (as many suppliers do) Reg prefers to sell direct to the chefs he speaks to so that he can gauge regular feedback. Although he numbers many Michelin-starred restaurants among his customers his prices are remarkably similar to what you will find on supermarket shelves, which allows local pubs to buy in the quality product as well as top restaurants.
Reg continued: “I have to say that it was Paul Heathcote and Nigel Haworth, both Lancastrians, who put the focus back on the smaller local producer by serving our products in their restaurants – and by telling people about it. Their encouragement has helped immensely through the years.”
From Goosnargh it was a short trip through rolling hills to Chipping where I met up with cheese maker Bob Kitching and his daughter Faye at Leagram’s Organic Dairy.
With 30 years of cheese making behind him you might think that Bob is a bit of an expert – he is, and he’s got the awards to prove it. Bob is another food producer taking a distinctly singular path – the one marked ‘quality’. The small family-run dairy has enjoyed the praises of foodies up and down the country – the many show-winning rosettes covering his wall are testament enough to that – but the most important indication of the success of their cheese making is the customers who return for more.
Faye said: “We can be found in farmer’s markets throughout the county and the most pleasing thing is seeing the same faces return to our stall. We also have a great relationship with restaurateurs such as Nigel Haworth who are always making suggestions for ways to improve or change the taste and presentation of the cheese. That’s how the curd cheese, or soft cheese as we call it, came about. It’s a big hit on the menu at the Three Fishes. We’re keen to keep the quality high and the cheese unique; we don’t want to compromise quality by chasing large orders from big distributors.”
Bob added: “Our cheese is batch pasteurised and takes longer to mature than commercial cheeses. You have to treat it gently to get the best results; it needs time to nurture so it can reach its potential. That’s something you can’t achieve when making in huge quantities.”
The strategy seems to be paying off. Leagram’s creamy Lancashire won gold at the British Cheese Awards and scooped two firsts at the prestigious Nantwich Cheese Show for both their organic and vegetarian Lancashire. All of which makes the dairy, currently one of 12 cheese makers within five miles of the village, the epitome of a high quality, local, small food producer. Even the dairy cattle that provide the milk for the cheese are reared within five miles of the dairy – many within sight of the back door!
The use of local materials extends to their concern for animal welfare. Faye said: “We want the way we treat animals and make cheese to reflect our values. We are organic and have no additives, which also makes us environmentally friendly.”
Making cheese in small weekly batches makes the premium product a sought after treat. But even the Kitchings are aware that they will soon have to increase production to satisfy demand.
Conscious that their operation has the potential to become a tourist destination (Bob holds regular demonstrations in a small museum in the barn next door), Faye said that Chipping needs a focus for the many people who visit the village – a village that was once the centre of cheese making in the county because of the lush fields on which the cows graze.
Due to Bob’s cheese making tours and demonstrations (that has seen him make cheese live on Radio 4’s Today programme, his popularity has extended overseas, having welcomed visitors from Australia and Madagascar.
From Goosnargh I made my way out to the flatlands of Tarleton to see Peter Ascroft at Worthington Farm. I caught up with Peter at his busiest time of the year in the middle of scores of acres of cabbage and cauliflowers stretching to the horizon. He and his crew were cutting cabbages and cauli’s for immediate despatch around the county.
“Cauli’s are fickle vegetables”, Peter told me, “they can grow from the size of your fist to a double handful within three days, so timing is all when harvesting.” It is this care that produces the sweet and flavourful cauli’s that are currently offered deep-fried or in a choice of quiches at the Three Fishes.
During the course of the year Peter grows cauli’s, cabbage, potatoes, purple sprouting broccoli, purple carrots and golden beetroot. He also has some fields under wheat and barley.
Looking out over the land that his father and both grandfathers farmed before him, Peter said: “I always wanted to be a farmer and I’ve loved it, although it’s been tough. But my son won’t farm the land because we’re being squeezed dry by the low prices offered. Booth’s are much fairer than the larger supermarkets and wholesalers, and I enjoy dealing with the smaller outfits like The Three Fishes but vegetables are selling for the same price today as they were 10 or 20 years ago – not many businesses could survive in those circumstances.
“People say that food doesn’t taste the same as it did 20 years ago. They’re right. Food is better now because there are fewer additives than ever before.”
My last stop on the food tour took me back to the Ribble Valley to meet Janet Forshaw of the Little Town Dairy in Thornley, near Longridge.
Perhaps I chose an unusually hectic day but I have never interviewed anyone who was so much in demand – Janet fielded about 15 telephone calls within the 40 minutes we chatted. Business certainly appears buoyant!
Janet married into a dairy farming family that ran up against intransigent farm quotas in the 1980s, which restricted the amount of milk they could sell. But there were no such restrictions on cultured milk products – the legislation pointed the way forward for the small business. The farm now sells sour cream, crème fraiche, natural & flavoured yoghurts and fromage frais.
The manufacturing side to the business began when Janet’s mother-in-law attended a short college course, which introduced her to the basics of yoghurt making. The early days saw her heat-sealing the silver foil lids on to the cartons using a domestic iron!
But things have moved on. The dairy now manufactures three times a week with 18 staff including four members of the Forshaw family. Her husband still runs the farm next door.
Janet said: “Our choice of products is almost wholly customer-led. The bottom line is if the customer doesn’t want it, it won’t sell.
Commenting on the rise of the informed consumer, she said: “A few years ago people would buy the cheapest food on the shelf. Now people who shop at farmer’s markets are asking more questions about where the food has come from and how it was produced – you can’t get that information from a supermarket shelf.
Janet was clear about the benefits of buying local: “The advantage is traceability. The dairy only uses a single source of milk – our own, and we have control over the feed, which affects the protein and buttermilk levels in the milk.
“Another growing concern is the environmental idea of ‘food miles’, a system that calculates how far the food has travelled from its origin to the plate. It doesn’t make sense to send something to a central distribution point hundreds of miles away for it to reappear in a local store.”
As I leave, the ‘phone rings yet again and I scan the office wall that parades the food awards for many of the dairy’s products. Janet quipped: “We won’t be winning any awards this year – we’ve not got the time to enter!”
Returning from the Ribble Valley I realise some common traits in all the food producers I have met. There is a commitment to quality before all else, but there is also a modesty and a certainty of purpose that comes from knowing they produce something unique that gives pleasure to many people. As Nigel Haworth might say, their food has very ‘sturdy roots’.
For most people though, the bottom line is taste. Buy a chicken from Reg Johnson and one from Sainsbury’s, or some Lancashire curd from Leagram’s and the equivalent from Asda and compare. Only then will you realise what your taste buds have been missing. If you have already discovered the joys of buying your food direct from small suppliers then tell a friend and help support small Lancastrian food suppliers – and protect a vital regional resource.
First published in Lancashire County Magazine.