If you're into Africa, motorbikes and tea (3 of my favourite things, as Julie Andrews nearly sang), you've landed on the right page.
This blog was launched when I was planning African Brew Ha-Ha my solo overland motorcycle trip from Lancashire (UK) to Cape Town. The trip finished some time ago but I still find plenty to write about.
I continued my two-wheeled exploration of Africa in 2010 when I travelled through Ghana. Absolutely top country.
I was in the Western Cape recently and found time to scoot out to the Cedarberg, or, more precisely, the Biedouw Valley which is just outside the official wilderness area.
It's a stunning part of the world for walking, biking, and soaking up the wilderness experience. I stayed at Enjo farm run by a European couple. An added attraction is that they have a couple of bikes - a Suzuki 200 and a Yammy XT 600. I took the Yammy out for the day. Even though the weather was uniquely crap, it's the only way to see the mountains and valleys. Wupperthal is worth a visit for the hand-made shoes alone.
It's only three hours from Cape Town, a direct route to wilderness if that's your thing.
I have recently returned from a stress-free month in Cape Town. While I was there I spent a happy hour sharing travel and publishing stories with Tim Butcher, author of the best-selling (and terrific) Blood River.
The book recounts a journey through DR Congo, and delves into the country's chaotic past. It is a superb tale, movingly told in crisp yet profound prose. I learned much about African history and found myself envying him his experiences, while stirring in me the urge to plan another journey. All the things you want from great travel writing.
The strapline to Tim's book is 'A journey to Africa's broken heart'. It's a reminder that travelling through Africa can grip the emotions like no other place.
Good writing can do that too. And for that reason I emphatically recommend Blood River to anyone who enjoys a tightly-written but multi-layered travel story and who would like to peek into a dark corner of the world.
The African Brew Ha-Ha made it to page 1 of the Triumph Motorcycle Owners' Club membership magazine - called Nacelle - this month. The cover page shows the bike on a memorable day in the High Atlas mountains. There's a five page spread inside too.
I met the editor, David Porter, at a talk I did for the Manchester branch of the club. I believe he is a new editor and he's doing a great job.
If you have a Triumph I recommend you join the club for the general craic, the ride outs, and the get togethers with like-minded people.
Great to see Awesome Tapes from Africa getting a little mainstream coverage in the Observer on Sunday.
The Awesome Tapes blog is hosted by New Yorker Brian Shimkowitz who has taken a shine to obscure recordings by African bands - mostly on cassette tapes. The tapes are digitally re-recorded by him and can be heard on his blog - the artwork is scanned and uploaded too like the ones above and below from Mali.
Most of the musicians cannot be traced (or paid) but the site has turned into a huge archive of music that otherwise might have only been available in a dusty corner of Africa. Check it out.
It's great to hear from readers of African Brew Ha-Ha. Here's an email I received from Oliver Jones from Abergavenny:
"I have just finished reading your African brew ha ha and I just had to e-mail you to say how much I enjoyed this brilliant story of your travells in Africa. I have just returned from my first trip to South Africa myself and I took your book with me. I read it during my time in Cape Town and my travells along the garden route and it kept me entertained many evenings sat around the braai in various backpackers! Also I have to add that when numerous people of varying nationalities questioned me on my choice of reading they were all exteremly fascinated and intruiged by your story and the various adventures you had along the way.
I found the book funny, informative and your descriptions of the people you encountered along the way were inspiring. I think you showed tremendous resiliance and plenty of bravery to actually complete the journey after some of the set backs you encountered along the way. To top my trip off, during my final week in Cape Town I happened to be wandering around the indoor craft market at the waterfront when I came across the Original Tea Bag Design stall! It was as if I was meant to find it! Thank you for writing such an excellent book - it really was a joy to read. Keep up the good work."
Do something different this week .... go to the library!
In the current economic climate our libraries will soon be closing if we do not use them (and possibly even if we do use them). Either way, our local library is a great natural resource that we too often take for granted.
Here's an email from someone who found something interesting in his library.
Alan,
Having just read African Brew Ha Ha I congratulate you... a) on a really well written and informative book and.. .b) having the strength and fortitude to see it through. At times I was absolutely knackered just reading about how you tackled Africa's roads and the red tape and corruption that goes with such an adventure.
However it was also easy to appreciate your heartfelt feelings towards the people you came in contact with. My copy of your book came via my local library after my wife spotted it in the "Travellers’ Tales" section. I have now ordered a copy from Amazon to take across to my American mate who I know will be blown away by it.
Once again thanks for a great read and ride safe.
John Dowson
It may sound odd that I was asked to lecture on the Asian leg of the Saga Ruby round-the-world cruise, but there were plenty of people who wanted to know about my African motorcycle trips on the cruise ship. My stories about the kindness of strangers on the road never fail to translate, no matter which continent (or ocean) I'm on.
I picked up the ship in the Maldives and disembarked in Singapore (above), a city that should be on your list of places to see if you have not been. In port, I did not have enough time to rent my own bike but did ride pillion a few times with friendly locals and spent plenty of time in tuk-tuks.
I'd like to thank the crew, fellow lecturers and cruisers for introducing me to the sybaritic delights of cruising. Please call again.
African Brew Ha-Ha takes to the high seas this week when I bring the presentation to the Maldives, Sri Lanka, Thailand and Singapore. Even though I'll be at sea most of the time, I think it still counts as Asia (the third continent on which I've presented).
The crew on the good ship Saga Ruby must have heard how well the presentation went at ADVENTURE TRAVEL LIVE last Saturday so they invited me along to join the round-the-world cruise and present three 'lectures' - relax, it's not that formal.
I join the ship on a private island in the Maldives (apparently it looks like the picture above) and they turf me off 8 days later at Singapore where I shall try and get a bike and do what comes more naturally on terra firma.
I can't wait to combine the book tour with more travel.
Now, I like the book tour and I like travel, but which one is better? There's only one way to find out...
I'll be joining Chris Scott, Benedict Allen and a bevvy of travel talent to give a talk about African Brew Ha-Ha at Adventure Travel Live - the show for serious adventure travellers on January 28/29/30 at the Royal Horticultural Halls in London.
I know that makes it sound like I know them all but actually I'm just thrilled to be asked.
I'll be talking in the Overland & Expeditions Theatre at 1pm on Saturday Jan 29. Come along and ask a difficult question!
Tickets here www.adventuretravellive.com - use the promotional code WHELAN for £4 off the door price.
I was more than a little keen to bring the Brew Ha-Ha show to the place where it all began - Original Tea Bag Designs in Cape Town. They provided the inspiration for the trip and last month they provided the venue for my presentation of stories and pictures from my trans-Africa trip.
Thanks to Jill and the tea bag workers who re-arranged the room for seating and came out on a Monday night for tea and wine.
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